Scots Pines and Planting
Bishop’s Castle Walking Festival has always made use of the extensive network of footpaths that criss-crosses our special corner of South West Shropshire. Many of these are the remnants of ancient routes; some such as the Portway across the Long Mynd are Bronze Age traders’ routes, and many such as the Kerry Ridgeway were once part of the maze of drovers’ routes.
Drovers’ routes were traditionally way-marked by stands of Scots Pines, which indicated suitable resting places as well as acting as landmarks along the route.
Scots Pines can live up to 500 years of age, though it is more usually 200-250 years. They are a tall tree, distinguishable by their lopsided or uneven tops and on closer inspection by their orange-tinged bark. Spine leaves in pairs are usually stumpy, as are the cones. Taking three years to develop on the branch, the cones generally spread their winged seeds in the hot weather when they travel far and wide. Once empty the cones fall to the ground.
Many Scots Pines have died, been removed to make way for buildings or agriculture, or been lost in storms, even in recent years. As part of our 25 year celebration we have replanted these majestic trees so that they can grace the skyline for many years to come, bringing modern day walkers and travellers together with the old countryside networks.
Walking Festival volunteers with the help of landowners and the Bishop’s Castle Parish Path Partnership selected suitable sites and planted and protected 25 Scots Pine saplings. As you walk along the footpaths look out for them and consider giving them a drink and taking away any entangling plants. That way we can all work together to continue this long line of history in our special landscape.
Who were the drovers who made these routes
Drovers were men who drove herds of cattle, sheep, pigs, turkeys and geese from the farm where they were bred in Wales, Scotland, Ireland and the North of England to market, which was usually a large city such as Birmingham, Manchester or London.
The head drover had to be licenced and was considered a respectable and trustworthy person. He was likely to be the only drover on horseback, with those under his charge on foot. The head drovers would have been entrusted with carrying post, keeping accounts and acting as financiers for the farmers, paying their creditors with the proceeds of the sales. They would often be tasked with escorting the sons of gentry on their journey to the city giving them protection along the way.
The well-used routes were at risk from highwaymen, meaning the drovers needed to carry as little cash as possible. The Black Ox bank was founded in Llandovery in 1799 as one of a number of “drovers’ banks” set up along some of the main drovers routes. This area of Carmarthenshire was renowned for its black cattle and the banknotes featured an engraving of a Welsh black ox. This became such a symbol of trust and integrity that even into the 19th century Bank of England notes were treated with great suspicion in much of West Wales. The bank survived until 1909 when it amalgamated with Lloyds Bank and the black ox became the still well-known black horse.
It was a hard life for the drovers under the head drover’s command. They had to be rough and tough individuals who were often regarded with fear and awe in the towns and villages on their routes. They would have dogs to help with the drove. Welsh corgis would be ideal for driving cattle as they would nip at the beasts’ heels and their short legs would keep them out of reach of kicks. Collies might be used for driving other animals. At the end of the long journey the dogs would often return home on their own, arriving before the drovers, giving notice of their master’s return.
The Journey
Established routes known to the head drover took into consideration the terrain and suitable stopping points. Upland routes along natural ridgeways gave good visibility to spot any danger as well as being drier and firmer underfoot, although steep inclines were avoided. In the Marches area the most renowned of these is the Kerry Ridgeway. In lowland areas old drovers’ routes might be indicated by wide verges, often still called Longacre.
Each group or drove of animals was likely to number at least 200 and the noise of them approaching would warn the local farmers to secure their own stock against following the herd. As groups got closer to their final destination they would join together and there might be over 1,000 animals at one time all clattering and bellowing through local lanes.
The biggest market was Smithfield in central London, described by Daniel Defoe as the greatest meat market in the world. By 1800 it was estimated over 100,000 cattle and 75,000 sheep were brought to the market each year. The head drover’s pay was 3/- a day plus a bonus of 6/- when all the cattle were sold. Although he had to be educated, and keep account books it was the market dealers who made the money.
It was important that the animals were in good condition when they arrived at market so care of them during the journey was of paramount importance. The cattle covered 15 – 20 miles in a day at an average speed of 2 miles per hour with Welsh corgis snapping at their heels to keep them moving. Each beast needed 8 – 10 gallons of water per day. Stopping places, usually marked by groups of Scots Pines, included pounds for the livestock, sources of water and overnight fodder, plus safe shelter for men and beasts and access to a blacksmith to shoe the cattle. Only the head drover would be afforded the luxury of a bed for the night, with his men sleeping close to the livestock.
Pigs, sheep and occasionally goats were also driven, although not usually for such distances as the cattle. Geese and turkeys would have their feet protected by leather shoes or have their feet tarred. Geese moved faster than turkeys, as they grazed as they walked, while turkeys had to be stopped to feed.
There were strict rules attached to overnight stops. The drovers would be fined if the beasts trespassed out of the agreed pound or field into other farmers’ land. They were not allowed to go into a hostelry or to travel on a Sunday so they would set off at one minute past midnight on Monday, which must have set up quite a cacophony and disturbed the local peace.
The Bishop's Castle connection
Evidence exists of drovers’ routes and stopping places locally. At Cefn Einion there are no longer any Scots Pines, but the village is on a crossroads, where routes would meet and the essential elements of water, smithy, pub and pasture were all available.
The Dog and Duck and The Britannia Inn (now Upper Castlewright Cottage) are both on the Kerry Ridgeway, the best known drovers’ route in the area. Blacksmiths at The Moat, Mainstone and Bishop’s Castle, would have travelled out to the stopping places to re-shoe the cattle.
The main route down to Bishop’s Castle from the Ridgeway is Kerry Lane, indicated by a stand of Scots Pines, but to avoid the tolls the drovers came down scores of different tracks. Field names such as The Welshman’s Leasow and Ox Leasow probably indicate they were used by drovers. The Six Bells was originally a farmhouse and its fields would have stretched as far as the Pound off Pig Fair, now Union Street. The Pennal brook would have supplied drinking water for the beasts and until quite recently there was a group of three Scots Pine in the churchyard opposite.
The 1851 Bishop’s Castle census lists John Davies in a lodging house as a drover. Also, a James Phillips lived in Horsefair (now Station Street) in 1841 with his family. His daughter Eliza was married in 1853 and James is listed on the marriage certificate as a cattle drover. Eliza had 10 children who remained in this area for generations.
In 1848 James Phillips was accused of forging vouchers to prove expenses he had incurred when employed as a drover by Richard Thomas to take cattle to Market Harborough. In spite of good character references from Mr Bright, banker, and provision dealers including Mr Burd, he was imprisoned in Shrewsbury Gaol for one year.
Other drovers had brushes with the law. In 1889 Jeffrey Williams was charged with being drunk on the highway at Bucknell and was fined 10/- and costs. In 1900 Michael Joyce was fined 1/- and 5/- costs for being drunk and disorderly at an auction sale at The Lea. In 1909 Nathaniel Gwilt, a farmer from Woodbatch, was fined for purchasing 17 ewes and lambs which his drover brought to Bishop’s Castle and placed in a field at Old Hall without permission.
The railway came to Bishop’s Castle in 1865. The appropriately named Stank Lane, known locally as a drovers’ route, leads to Craven Arms and the main line railway.
In 1876 William Powell, drover for John Thomas, cattle dealer of Shrewsbury, was fined a massive 22/10d for avoiding paying for his third class railway ticket. He pleaded he was exempt because he had sent two loads of cattle from Bishop’s Castle fair. The Bishop’s Castle Railway Company brought a case against him as he was only entitled to free travel if he was on the same train as the cattle to take charge of them, and he caught a later train.
With the advent of the railways things changed for drovers everywhere which led to the demise of the long distance droves. The drovers found employment more locally as stockmen and some emigrated to the new world and became cowboys in North America.
Bishop’s Castle Walking Festival has always made use of the extensive network of footpaths that criss-crosses our special corner of South West Shropshire. Many of these are the remnants of ancient routes; some such as the Portway across the Long Mynd are Bronze Age traders’ routes, and many such as the Kerry Ridgeway were once part of the maze of drovers’ routes.
Drovers’ routes were traditionally way-marked by stands of Scots Pines, which indicated suitable resting places as well as acting as landmarks along the route.
Scots Pines can live up to 500 years of age, though it is more usually 200-250 years. They are a tall tree, distinguishable by their lopsided or uneven tops and on closer inspection by their orange-tinged bark. Spine leaves in pairs are usually stumpy, as are the cones. Taking three years to develop on the branch, the cones generally spread their winged seeds in the hot weather when they travel far and wide. Once empty the cones fall to the ground.
Many Scots Pines have died, been removed to make way for buildings or agriculture, or been lost in storms, even in recent years. As part of our 25 year celebration we have replanted these majestic trees so that they can grace the skyline for many years to come, bringing modern day walkers and travellers together with the old countryside networks.
Walking Festival volunteers with the help of landowners and the Bishop’s Castle Parish Path Partnership selected suitable sites and planted and protected 25 Scots Pine saplings. As you walk along the footpaths look out for them and consider giving them a drink and taking away any entangling plants. That way we can all work together to continue this long line of history in our special landscape.
Who were the drovers who made these routes
Drovers were men who drove herds of cattle, sheep, pigs, turkeys and geese from the farm where they were bred in Wales, Scotland, Ireland and the North of England to market, which was usually a large city such as Birmingham, Manchester or London.
The head drover had to be licenced and was considered a respectable and trustworthy person. He was likely to be the only drover on horseback, with those under his charge on foot. The head drovers would have been entrusted with carrying post, keeping accounts and acting as financiers for the farmers, paying their creditors with the proceeds of the sales. They would often be tasked with escorting the sons of gentry on their journey to the city giving them protection along the way.
The well-used routes were at risk from highwaymen, meaning the drovers needed to carry as little cash as possible. The Black Ox bank was founded in Llandovery in 1799 as one of a number of “drovers’ banks” set up along some of the main drovers routes. This area of Carmarthenshire was renowned for its black cattle and the banknotes featured an engraving of a Welsh black ox. This became such a symbol of trust and integrity that even into the 19th century Bank of England notes were treated with great suspicion in much of West Wales. The bank survived until 1909 when it amalgamated with Lloyds Bank and the black ox became the still well-known black horse.
It was a hard life for the drovers under the head drover’s command. They had to be rough and tough individuals who were often regarded with fear and awe in the towns and villages on their routes. They would have dogs to help with the drove. Welsh corgis would be ideal for driving cattle as they would nip at the beasts’ heels and their short legs would keep them out of reach of kicks. Collies might be used for driving other animals. At the end of the long journey the dogs would often return home on their own, arriving before the drovers, giving notice of their master’s return.
The Journey
Established routes known to the head drover took into consideration the terrain and suitable stopping points. Upland routes along natural ridgeways gave good visibility to spot any danger as well as being drier and firmer underfoot, although steep inclines were avoided. In the Marches area the most renowned of these is the Kerry Ridgeway. In lowland areas old drovers’ routes might be indicated by wide verges, often still called Longacre.
Each group or drove of animals was likely to number at least 200 and the noise of them approaching would warn the local farmers to secure their own stock against following the herd. As groups got closer to their final destination they would join together and there might be over 1,000 animals at one time all clattering and bellowing through local lanes.
The biggest market was Smithfield in central London, described by Daniel Defoe as the greatest meat market in the world. By 1800 it was estimated over 100,000 cattle and 75,000 sheep were brought to the market each year. The head drover’s pay was 3/- a day plus a bonus of 6/- when all the cattle were sold. Although he had to be educated, and keep account books it was the market dealers who made the money.
It was important that the animals were in good condition when they arrived at market so care of them during the journey was of paramount importance. The cattle covered 15 – 20 miles in a day at an average speed of 2 miles per hour with Welsh corgis snapping at their heels to keep them moving. Each beast needed 8 – 10 gallons of water per day. Stopping places, usually marked by groups of Scots Pines, included pounds for the livestock, sources of water and overnight fodder, plus safe shelter for men and beasts and access to a blacksmith to shoe the cattle. Only the head drover would be afforded the luxury of a bed for the night, with his men sleeping close to the livestock.
Pigs, sheep and occasionally goats were also driven, although not usually for such distances as the cattle. Geese and turkeys would have their feet protected by leather shoes or have their feet tarred. Geese moved faster than turkeys, as they grazed as they walked, while turkeys had to be stopped to feed.
There were strict rules attached to overnight stops. The drovers would be fined if the beasts trespassed out of the agreed pound or field into other farmers’ land. They were not allowed to go into a hostelry or to travel on a Sunday so they would set off at one minute past midnight on Monday, which must have set up quite a cacophony and disturbed the local peace.
The Bishop's Castle connection
Evidence exists of drovers’ routes and stopping places locally. At Cefn Einion there are no longer any Scots Pines, but the village is on a crossroads, where routes would meet and the essential elements of water, smithy, pub and pasture were all available.
The Dog and Duck and The Britannia Inn (now Upper Castlewright Cottage) are both on the Kerry Ridgeway, the best known drovers’ route in the area. Blacksmiths at The Moat, Mainstone and Bishop’s Castle, would have travelled out to the stopping places to re-shoe the cattle.
The main route down to Bishop’s Castle from the Ridgeway is Kerry Lane, indicated by a stand of Scots Pines, but to avoid the tolls the drovers came down scores of different tracks. Field names such as The Welshman’s Leasow and Ox Leasow probably indicate they were used by drovers. The Six Bells was originally a farmhouse and its fields would have stretched as far as the Pound off Pig Fair, now Union Street. The Pennal brook would have supplied drinking water for the beasts and until quite recently there was a group of three Scots Pine in the churchyard opposite.
The 1851 Bishop’s Castle census lists John Davies in a lodging house as a drover. Also, a James Phillips lived in Horsefair (now Station Street) in 1841 with his family. His daughter Eliza was married in 1853 and James is listed on the marriage certificate as a cattle drover. Eliza had 10 children who remained in this area for generations.
In 1848 James Phillips was accused of forging vouchers to prove expenses he had incurred when employed as a drover by Richard Thomas to take cattle to Market Harborough. In spite of good character references from Mr Bright, banker, and provision dealers including Mr Burd, he was imprisoned in Shrewsbury Gaol for one year.
Other drovers had brushes with the law. In 1889 Jeffrey Williams was charged with being drunk on the highway at Bucknell and was fined 10/- and costs. In 1900 Michael Joyce was fined 1/- and 5/- costs for being drunk and disorderly at an auction sale at The Lea. In 1909 Nathaniel Gwilt, a farmer from Woodbatch, was fined for purchasing 17 ewes and lambs which his drover brought to Bishop’s Castle and placed in a field at Old Hall without permission.
The railway came to Bishop’s Castle in 1865. The appropriately named Stank Lane, known locally as a drovers’ route, leads to Craven Arms and the main line railway.
In 1876 William Powell, drover for John Thomas, cattle dealer of Shrewsbury, was fined a massive 22/10d for avoiding paying for his third class railway ticket. He pleaded he was exempt because he had sent two loads of cattle from Bishop’s Castle fair. The Bishop’s Castle Railway Company brought a case against him as he was only entitled to free travel if he was on the same train as the cattle to take charge of them, and he caught a later train.
With the advent of the railways things changed for drovers everywhere which led to the demise of the long distance droves. The drovers found employment more locally as stockmen and some emigrated to the new world and became cowboys in North America.